Uttarakhand

Kanwar Yatra Pilgrims going near the Gangotri Glacier for a closer look at Gaumukh.

We were over 3800 meters high, walking a rugged mountain trail. The weather was cold and misty with a bit of rain in the air. But the pilgrims, some in their shorts & t-shirts, walking barefoot or just wearing chappals were undeterred by the terrain or the climate. They breezed through it all and focussing only on getting to Gaumukh ('Gau' - cow & 'Mukh - face), the terminus of the Gangotri Glacier and the source of the Bhagirathi river. One of the main tributaries of the mighty Ganges.

A priest offering the aarti flames to the devotees and getting donations in return.

A priest offering the holy flames to the pilgrims during the Ganga Aarti evening ceremony at Har-Ki-Pauri in Haridwar. The devotees give some offering in the form of money back to the priests. Things did feel a bit commercialized to me, but maybe thats just the cynic in me talking.

Ganga Aarti ceremony at Har-Ki-Pauri, Haridwar.

Seeking blessings from the scared flames. A typical scene during the Ganga Aarti ritual which takes place every evening at Har-ki-Pauri in Haridwar. I love this picture. Watch the girl in the background taking in the blessings.

Ma Ganga winding her way through the hills of Uttarkashi in Northern India.

The Ganges river, still in its infancy winding through the hills of Uttarkashi in Northern India. Uttarkashi is about 150km downriver from Gangotri glacier one of the main sources of the river. From the glacier the river thunders through the hills of Uttarkashi gradually growing in size as countless streams come join her waters.  Technically here at Uttarkashi the river is not yet called the Ganges. Here it is known as Bhagirathi river.  This photo was taken outside the Sivananda Kutir ashram at Netala. The hills surrounding it contain some of the greenest and prettiest villages i've seen in all of India. It is just a quietly beautiful place, well off the tourist trail.

Pilgrims from all over north india gathered in Har-ki-Pauri for the Kanwar Mela.

During the Kanwar mela, millions of people from all over North India come to Haridwar to collect water from the Ganges and take it back home. Here you can see the stalls and camps set up to accomodate the pilgrims. The colorful objects on sale in this picture are Kanwars. Wooden (bamboo) poles used by the pilgrims to carry the Ganga Jal (holy water) back to their hometowns. Usually the pole is slung across their shoulders with water-pots hanging from either end.

The Ganga Aarti ceremony at the Hai-ki-Pauri ghats.

As i reached the Har-ki-Pauri ghats the aarti had already begun. All along the ghats, priests like this can be seen performing the aarti with many devotees around them. The aarti is accompanied by the melodious chanting of the "Om Jai Gange Mata" hymn by everyone gathered there. The whole place swayed to the rhythm and the tempo of the bhajans. The atmosphere was quite incredible. It took me back to my days in the Sivanada ashram where we used to do the Ganga Aarti every day and i found myself singing along to the bhajans.

The winding Ganges river flowing past the Netala village in Uttarkashi

The Ganges river, still in its infancy winding through the hills of Uttarkashi in Northern India. Uttarkashi is about 150km downriver from Gangotri glacier one of the main sources of the river. From the glacier the river thunders through the hills of Uttarkashi gradually growing in size as countless streams come join her waters.  Technically here at Uttarkashi the river is not yet called the Ganges. Here it is known as Bhagirathi river.  This photo was taken outside the Sivananda Kutir ashram at Netala. The hills surrounding it contain some of the greenest and prettiest villages i've seen in all of India. It is just a quietly beautiful place, well off the tourist trail.

Kanwar yatra pilgrims at Rishikesh.

People gathered at the Har-ki-Pauri ghats.

People gathered on the Har-ki-Pauri ghats to witness the Ganga aarti ceremony. Once the ceremony is over, some of them take a ritual bath in the waters of the Ganges. Many people pay their respects to the river by placing floating diyas (wick lamps) on the waters of the ganges. The floating diya is basically a plantain leaf folded in the shape of a boat, containing a few flowers and a tiny wick lamp which would be lighted and set off on the waters.

Curious Kids

From the Netala village on the outskirts of the Uttarkashi town. We meet these kids almost daily on our evening walks outside the Sivananda Kutir ashram.

Kanwar yatra pilgrims at Rishikesh.

A pilgrim taking a ritual bath in the Ganges at Har-Ki-Pauri, Haridwar.

A vendor selling the tiny floating diyas (wick lamps) to the devotees at Hai-ki-Pauri.

Photo taken at the Har-ki-pauri ghats in Haridwar.

Closeup

Taken by a friend during one of the festival ceremonies at the Sivananda kutir ashram in Uttarkashi.

A priest offering the holy flames to the pilgrims during the Ganga Aarti ceremony at Har-Ki-Pauri in Haridwar.

A priest offering the holy flames to the pilgrims during the Ganga Aarti ceremony at Har-Ki-Pauri in Haridwar.

Over a shaky bridge with unshakable faith..

A sadhu walking his dog over the Laxman Jhula bridge in Rishikesh.

Haridwar Ghats

The Ganges flowing between the bathing ghats in Haridwar.

Scores of people crossing the Ram Jhula bridge at Rishikesh.

Pilgrims bathing by the Bhagirathi river (a tributary of Ganges) at Gangotri town.

A priest offering the holy flames to the pilgrims during the Ganga Aarti ceremony at Har-Ki-Pauri in Haridwar.

Never let it touch the ground.

The Kanwar pilgrims never let the water containers touch the ground. They sling the cans around their shoulders while walking and place them on makeshift stands while resting.

A priest walking around with the aarti after the ceremony at Har-ki-Pauri in Haridwar.

Once the Ganga aarti was complete, you'll see priests like this walking around offering the flames of the aarti to the devotees.

Tiny pooris arranged nicely at a chat shop.

Photo taken at the Har-ki-pauri ghats in Haridwar.

Devotees pay their respect to the aarti flames and receive blessings from the priests.

Kanwar yatra pilgrims walking on the road between Uttarkashi and Rishikesh.

Piping hot aloo tikki (potato patties) and big fluffy pooris on offer.

Photo taken at the Har-ki-pauri ghats in Haridwar.

Young vendors at Har-ki-pauri. Haridwar.

As i was walking towards the Har-ki-Pauri ghats these kids came up to me sell these odd looking garlands. I didn't buy any, but still they were happy to pose for a few pictures.

Kanwar Yatra pilgrims pausing for a moment on the trail between Gangotri town and Gaumukh.

Kanwar Yatra pilgrims pausing for a moment on the trail between Gangotri town and Gaumukh.

Kanwar Yatra Pilgrims going near the Gangotri Glacier for a closer look at Gaumukh.

People gathered to participate in the Ganga Aarti ceremony at Paramat niketan in Rishikesh.