Har-ki-Pauri (meaning the "Steps of Lord Shiva") is a famous ghat located on the banks of the Ganges river near Haridwar. It is here that the Ganges finally leaves the mountains and enters the plains of North India.

Every evening, the local priests perform a Ganga Aarti ceremony to welcome the revered river to the plains of India. It is a spectacular ceremony of fire and songs, participated and performed by thousands of people who gather here from all over the country..

Every year, during the monsoon months of July and August, the roads and highways of North India will be bathed in saffron by millions of pilgrims undertaking the Kanwar Yatra. This is a story of the Yatra, the Yatris and of me hiking, cycling and walking in their midst.